Printing technology company Agfa has filed a patent infringement lawsuit against luxury fashion house Gucci, alleging unauthorized use of its patented method for decorating natural leather. The legal battle centered on Agfa’s European patent EP 3 388 490, which covers a process for embellishing leather surfaces with decorative images—a technique the company considers vital to its future innovation strategy.
The dispute specifically involved Gucci’s Pikarar Collection, which Agfa claimed employed its patented method without authorization. However, the Local Division of the Unified Patent Court (UPC) in Hamburg dismissed both Agfa’s infringement claim and Gucci’s counterclaim for patent invalidation (Case ID: ACT_561734/2023).
Presiding Judge Sabine Klepsch and her panel deemed both the infringement action and the revocation counterclaim admissible, but ultimately ruled against both parties. The court’s decision was based on a detailed analysis of the patent language, drawing on precedent established in earlier UPC rulings, such as the NanoString vs. 10x Genomics case. The court concluded that the interpretation of certain terms in the patent should differ from their conventional meanings, resulting in a finding of no infringement on Gucci’s part.
This case marks the first time a luxury fashion brand has been involved in litigation before the newly established Unified Patent Court. The ruling offers some relief to the fashion industry, although Agfa still has the option to appeal.
Agfa was represented by a legal team jointly led by Daan de Lange of the Netherlands and Kai Rüting of Germany. The case also marked the first major matter handled by Vossius Brinkhof UPC Litigators, a new collaboration between Dutch and German law firms. Other members of the legal team included Stefan Fickert, Ananda Landwehr, Leonie Dissmann-Fuchs, Elard Schenck zu Schweinsberg, Isabelle Kleinveld, and Alexander de Leeuw. Hans Louis Strijckers managed the case internally for Agfa.
Although the decision did not go in Agfa’s favor, the company’s aggressive defense of its patent portfolio signals its strategic focus on emerging technologies in leather decoration.